Thursday, September 11, 2008

What I've Learned

I don't know who will even read this blog, as it has been over a month since I have updated, and three weeks since I have returned from Egypt. But this blog has seen me through so much in the past year, and I like to think that it has brought some new information to everyone interested in life in Egypt, and the greater Middle East. The reason I came to Egypt was because I was searching for knowledge, not just on women's leadership, but for better knowledge on this part of the world which is so terribly misunderstand, or simply not understood at all. There is an Arabic proverb which states,

"One should seek knowledge, not invite it."

As fantastic as it would be for some of these Egyptian men and women to come to the United States blow some minds and shatter stereotypes, that's not the way things work. We as Americans have a duty to learn about the people and the region that we feel we are entitled to guide, invade, and order around. Maybe if we knew more about them, we would realize that maybe we don't really know what we are talking about.

So I went to Egypt, and tried to listen and learn. But I don't think that my duty ends there. Because not every American has an opportunity to go to Egypt on a Fulbright, and not every American has the ability to speak Arabic. So I talk to Americans, and answer their questions as best as I can on Egypt and the issues in the Middle East. But you don't have to take my word for it, as there are a number of excellent books on the subjects. So for anyone who is interested, I have compiled a list of a few books which range from novel to textbook, all of which will give the reader a little more insight on the hottest topics that surround the Middle East. The list isn't exhaustive of course, just a few books that I have found to be helpful, and that you might as well.

On Terrorism and Jihad

"The Far Enemy: Why Jihad went Global"- Fawaz Gerges (on al-Qaeda)

"Jihad in Islamic History" -Michael Bonner (Medieval History)

"The Crusades: An Islamic Perspective" - Carole Hillenbrand

*You may think its odd, but you will be surprised how much the Crusades come up, so we can't afford to forget about that bloodthirsty part of western history.

On Israel/Palestine
"The Lemon Tree" - Sandy Tolan (novel which balances the two sides)

"History of the Israeli-Palestinian Conflict" - Mark Tessler (textbook but a must)

"Peace and its Discontents" - Edward Said (the peace process is never that easy"

MUST READS

"Muhammad: A Prophet for Our Time" -Karen Armstrong (understanding Islam)

"Orientalism" -Edward Said (pretty much the bible for Near East students)

"Pity the Nation" -Robert Fisk (On Lebanese Civil war by journalist who was there)


If you have the time, see what you think. There are other authors, blogs, and journalists out there. Just remember that everyone may claim to be an expert, but the reality is, there are very few out there. Today is 9/11, and one thing we have learned from the murderous attacks and the confusion that followed is that when it comes to the Middle East and Islam, we really don't know anything. We need to read, listen and learn. Thanks for reading my blog, it has been my pleasure and honor to share what I learn with you. Remember, knowledge isn't like cake, you can share it and eat it too :)

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Rest in Peace, Mahmoud Darwish

The Palestinian poet, Mahmoud Darwish, was a man beloved by his people. Considered by some to be "the spirit of the Palestinian nation", many considered him to the be the conscience of the nation. As staunch of a critic as he was of the occupation, he also strongly criticized Palestinian infighting, sharply reproaching the leadership of both Hamas and Fatah for diving the Palestinian people. He loved his country, and that love was clearly returned. Not only by Palestinians, but by readers all over the world. Poet Naomi Shihab Nye describes Darwish as:

"The Essential Breath of the Palestinian people, the eloquent witness of exile and belonging, exquisitely tuned singer of images that invoke, link and shine a brilliant light into the whole world's heart. What he speaks has been embraced by readers around the world-his is an utterly necessary voice, unforgettable once discovered."

Darwish has passed from this world, but his voice will live on. For he represents not only the national, painful memory of Palestinians, but also their hope for a future state, rich with their culture. This is something that can not die, not even with a figure like Darwish. In fact, he put it best:

"We suffer from the incurable malady: hope" -Mahmoud Darwish, 1941-2008

Friday, August 8, 2008

Egyptians in Beijing

Egypt has some high hopes for the Olympic games this year, and its a good thing most of those expectations rest on the shoulders of their champion Greco-Roman wrestler. Karam Gaber won gold in 2004, and the 29 year old is back to defend his big win. Fittingly, this Greco-Roman wrestler was born in Alexandria, a town which manages to maintain its Greco-Roman heritage while remaining distinctly Egyptian. But Egypt also might be able to make a name for itself in other fields. With 100 athletes competing in a number of different sports, Egyptian Olympians continue to proudly represent their country. One of the most promising athletes is Aya Medani, 19 year old modern pentathalete. As a 15 year old, she managed to compete in the 2004 games. Aya has grown stronger, and more competitive, and is likely to medal in the event. Egypt is also proud to boast Sherine El Zeiny, who is the only African gymnast to compete during the games. El-Zeiny comments on her first experience at the Olympics, "Being the only one from Africa is very exciting. It motivates me as I would like to make people from Egypt and Africa proud." Men and women, from taekwondo to synchronized swimming, these athletes remind us what the games are really about. Egypt may not win the most medals, but its athletes continue to give all Egyptians something to be proud of.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Fun in the Region

After a long hike up Mt. Sinai under a star light sky, passing camels and pilgrims, we make up to the top to rest and watch an amazing sunrise.
Unbelievable.

Pauline at the glorious Petra

on my own in Sharm, I had to make up a web of lies about being married, but I was actually here with my sister, but she is sick in the hotel. But it was great traveling solo.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Crunked in Cairo


I know, extremely important topic of discussion. But you would actually be surprised by the number of people who have asked me about the drinking scene in Cairo. I am by no means an alcoholic expert, but nor am I am amateur, so I will tell you what my own experience has been.

The drinking scene here can be roughly divided into three major categories: nice Restaurants/hotels, shaaby bars, and house parties. Cairo is an international city, a tourist town, and also a multi-religious scene. So despite the fact that Egypt is 90 percent Muslim, there is quite an alcohol flow. Also remember that not all those Muslims adhered to the religious ban on alcohol, just as not all Christians go to church on Sundays. This means that you can get alcohol in pretty much all the nice restaurants and hotel bars. An exception to this is the famous case of the Grand Hyatt, whose Saudi local owner recently banned alcohol, dumped an estimated 8 million dollars worth of the goods, and infuriated the international corporation. My friends and I usually treat ourselves to a few local beers whilst eating out, but it never gets too crazy, as these drinks are a bit pricey. They really hit your wallet if you head to some of the clubs inside the hotels. One club, called "Latex" (thats a whole other blog entry) charges an arm and a leg for water, let alone a martini.

The Shaaby bar is by far your best deal for beer, outside of bringing the goods straight to a house party. Sha'ab in Arabic means "People" so "shaaby" is "of the people" "local" or just "chill-no frills-kinda-place". Its no coincidence that shaaby sounds an awful lot like shabby, as these bars can be perfectly described as tattered. These bars tend to be full of seedy male Egyptians getting away from their wives and kids for a bit, and young Americans, happy to find the closest thing they can find to their local bar. Kicking back $1.50 20 ounce beers, Stellas, the night can be wasted and enjoyed in the halls of this joint. The staff knows your face, if not your name, and is quick with another beer and another dish of "timriz" which are little salty beans, the best drinking food ever. The air is full of the smoke of the patrons, and the exhaust of being located smack in the middle of downtown. As the green bottles stack up--they leave them on the table in order to keep a bill--you begin to get cravings for koshery, the Egyptian street food of choice. Luckily, right down the street is sure to be a koshery stand. What more could you need?

If you prefer the private drinking scene, Cairo is certainly full of house parties. In fact, I would say this is indeed the method of choice for Cairo's drinking expat community. I think these parties function pretty much the same way no matter where you are in the globe, the only difference is that in the middle of the night, you pinch yourself, and remind yourself. "No, you aren't at Alpha Sig, you are in Egypt." and then continue to dance. Also, instead of picking up your goods at the local corner store, you go to either Christian grocery stores, or to the notorious Egyptian chain of alcohol stores, "Drinkies". Seriously, if you already felt guilty about drinking, theres nothing like "drinkies" to make you feel like a college freshmen. If you consider house parties anywhere you can transport alcohol with your friends, you can also include the felluka rides on the Nile. Nothing beats sipping a few cold ones with your best friends in Egypt, and watching the sunset over the Nile.

Before I make Cairo sound like the next Cancun, I would like to say something about maintaining sensitivity. Despite the incredible accessibility of alcohol here, one has to remember that for most Egyptians, drinking is not acceptable. I do think that they maintain a point of view of "Each unto his own" and can tolerate non-Muslims drinking, as they understand that in our culture and religion, it is not forbidden. However, its always important for us to remember that we are guests here in their country. Even if they can tolerate our drinking habits, we shouldn't stumble in the streets and make a spectacle of ourselves and our disrespect for their culture. However, this is of course tricky when alcohol is involved, but this is where your friends come in. My motto has always been, "Friends don't let friends make drunken asses of themselves in conservative societies." Its not as catchy as the M.A.D.D. slogan, but if you ever party in Cairo, it may help to keep it in mind.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Family Affairs

I really can't say when I will next see my Palestinian family. I had the honor of being there for Rowan's wedding, the youngest sibling to get married, and it meant a lot to me to be there. The festivities were endless, the food delicious, and the number of random extended relatives I met and kissed on the check was countless. They treated me like a family member, called me a daughter, and a sister. We laughed, danced, hugged and even cried together. I was gonna hold it together, in the end, its not my real sister getting married. But then, the oldest son, Hamad, who is a 31 year old, tough Palestinian man, just breaks down crying. It was when the family was taking photos together, and it just probably made it real to him that his little sister was grown up and getting married. The rest of the family was already in tears, and I eventually joined them. Just seeing how close this family is, and being a part of this important event, it made me realize how special it was that this family had included me. I know I am not really related, and I am already someone else's daughter and sister. But, I have never been more included, and felt more related to a family who in another life would have been nothing more than strangers in a foreign land. One day I hope to thank them, but for now, the best I can do is remember to call, and come by to visit when I get a chance. I don't know when that will be, but they have already made me promise that I will have at least one wedding in Palestine, even if I have another one in America. I can't wait.

Monday, July 21, 2008

I Caught a Lizard!!

You won't believe it, but its true. I totally caught a lizard on Sunday.

I was about to take a shower, when I was startled to find that I was not the only one in the tub. A small iridescent little fellow, with a few green and orange spots. I keep my calm, and go and get my camera. I also call for my roommate, who is terrified of lizards, to come and help me catch him.

"No!" she yells from the living room.

"But how am I gonna get him?" I yell back.

"SPRAY HIM WITH RAID!!" She yells cruelly. Sammy wouldn't hurt a fly, but apparently she digs cruel and unusual punishment for reptiles.

Now, I can definitely not spray this poor guy in raid. I decide I must try to catch him with something, but lizards are fast, and can climb on anything, so its risky as I might end up with a lizard climbing up my arm. I settle on a the giant container of Quaker Oats that is practically empty. I dump the oats into bowl for safe keeping, and head back to the bathroom. The lizard is waiting for me, and so is my roommate who has emerged to watch the scene, but from a distance. I stand over the tub and try to get the lizard to move so I can slam the container over him. He runs, and I move,but a bit of the remaining oats slip out and the unexpected movement startles me and I shriek, which causes my lizard-hating-roommate to scream even louder and she backs out of the project.."I'm sorry, I need to leave, I can't do this..EVERYMAN FOR HIMSELF!"

Now it was just me and the lizard, and I manage to pluck up my courage. My roommate had suggested that I open the window just in case I want to throw it out (remember, she is also the one who wanted to spray him with raid). I did just that, not actually thinking I would resort to throwing it out the window. I got the lizard to move again, and slammed the Quaker Oats box over him, scooped him up, covered him half way with the lid, screaming "I CAUGHT THE LIZARD!!!" and promptly throw his ass out the window. The smiling Quaker with the lizard inside went sailing down the 5 stories and I never saw him again. But I am sure he is okay.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

The Quotable Qur'an

Today I spent some time memorizes a few passages from the Qur'an. I figure that it is about time that I fully commit to memory some of the passages that I spend so much time learning about. Before I can say I properly understand this complex religion, I had better try reading, understanding, and being able to accurately repeat the words. During my days with my tutor, I began to learn how to recite the holy scripture, as there is a whole art and science to it. She gave me some advice to keep in mind while learning reading/reciting the Qur'an:

1. Have Patience
2. Be Diligent
3. Listen to recordings
4. Don't be proud, you will make mistakes, and you have to accept that.
5. Have a specific goal in mind.

I thought this was good advice for any student, of any subject. I memorized two suras, or passages, before I had to end my lessons. But on my own, I have taken to practicing some of the messages of the Qur'an that I have always learned about, but never fully discovered in its true Arabic form. Specifically, these are on Islam's essential tolerance for other religions, and its encouragement of peaceful religious diversity.I apologize for my awkward English translations, but I think you'll get the point.

"This is the truth from your Lord; then he who will, let him believe, and he who will not, let him disbelieve." - from al-Kahf

"To the unbelievers: I do not worship as you worship, nor do you worship as I worship. I do not worship those that you worship, nor do you worship Him Whom I worship; that is because you follow one faith and I follow another faith." -from al-Kafiroon

"There is no compulsion in religion." -from al-Baqarah

I write these words over and over, I listen to the recordings of the revered sheikhs recite these words, and I practice my own recitations to fully cement these sayings in my mind. I try to maintain my patience, my diligence, make sure to listen to the sounds, and I believe after four years of studying one of the hardest languages, I have almost lost all my pride. As for my goal? I keep that ahead of me always. My goal is to be prepared to speak up in a taxi cab if an ignorant driver tries to tell me that I have to convert (hasn't happened, but I'm prepared if it does.) More importantly, my goal is spread to the word to non-Muslims that this is what Islam says, this is what the religion of our brothers and sisters teaches, and I know because I have read the text. I know its complicated, and its up to interpretation. But there are only so many ways that you can interprete "Unto me, my religion, and unto you, your religion". I don't care if you catch me at a party, at the library, or at the corner Walgreens. If I hear you talking about the religious intolerance of the Islamic faith, prepare to get a earful. In Arabic. And I will be citing the Qur'an in my footnotes.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Dialogue with a Harasser

Pauline: Salaam alaykum. Do you know where the Conrad Hotel is?

Taxi Driver: Conrad Hotel? Yes I know

Pauline: Great! You know you are the first taxi driver I have found who knows where it is! It must be because you are clever (always try to suck up to the driver so they will not try to rip you off)

Taxi Driver: (Beaming and checking me out in the rear-view mirror) Where are you from?

Pauline: From America, but I live here (i.e. I may be white but I'm not a tourist)

Taxi Driver: Are you married (What an original question! Its not like I get asked that by every driver)

Pauline: Yes I am.

Taxi Driver: To an American?

Pauline: No. I am married to an Egyptian. (first of many lies)

Taxi Driver: ohhhhh you are so beautiful. (i find it hilarious that he even bothered to ask me if I was married, as if that would deter any leering.

Pauline: Yes that's what my husband thinks.

Taxi Driver: Ohhhh soooo beautiful, so sweet. You should divorce your husband and marry me.

Now I ignore him for a bit, look at the window. But he continues with the harassment. Finally, when he reattempts the marriage offer, I shout at him, "Shame on you!! You know that I am married, and you know that this is inappropriate and disrespectful, shame on you!!"

Taxi Driver: Why? (AS IF!!!)

Pauline: Let me ask you, do you have sisters?

Taxi Driver: Yes.

Pauline: (now that I am riled up and have this guy in a confined space where he can't get away, I ask the question that we have always wanted to ask hooting and harassing men on the street. "How would you feel if a taxi driver was telling your married sister that she is SOOOOO BEAUTIFUL..... ohhhhhh YOU ARE SOOOOO BEAUTIFUL" and I use my best caveman voice to really convey my opinion of his type.

Pauline: "You know every day I have to deal with you men harassing me and telling me I am beautiful and I am so tired of it. I am sick of it! (It felt good to actually be able to tell one of these guys off. I think he was beginning to regret picking me up)

Taxi Driver: (seems to get my point, and avoids answering the sister question) "No but, you are beautiful, and what do you want me to say? Do you want me to tell you that you are ugly? Fine, you are the ugliest girl I have ever seen. SO UGLY!!"

Pauline: (can't help but smile) "That's better. But you know, why do you have to even comment on a girl's appearance. You know men shouldn't just see woman as either beautiful or ugly. They are more than just their looks. Women have minds you know, and...

Taxi Driver: (cutting me off) "And women have spirits"

Pauline: "Very good! Yes, women have minds, spirits, and are more than just a pretty/ugly face. (cue "The More you Know" music)

We arrive to my destination, and I think we both feel better about how the ride started out. He even apologized, and said that I was very nice and had the personality of one of his sisters. Hopefully he will start to see other women as his sisters also, and remember to treat them as such. Poor guy probably wasn't prepared for the ear-full he got, but hey, he started it.

Friday, July 4, 2008

About a George who was actually a good President

I like to think of Independence Day as a sort of Thanksgiving-for-the-Founding Fathers-Day. Because while I love fireworks, and making flag-cakes, what I aim to do on the fourth of July is to thank those men and women who made both the dream and the reality of the United States of America. I think that both the dream and the reality are important, because the dream was once articulated in 1776 with Thomas Jefferson’s Declaration of Independence. “ We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights, that among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.” This was the dream, but it took hundreds of years and plenty of bloodshed before the reality of equality and liberty were the rights of all Americans.

Despite some of the imperfections and contradictions of the government of our founding fathers (note that one such imperfection is the lack of mothers in this group), they certainly got a few things rights. I feel extremely lucky for a number of these concepts which have become pillars in our system, but there is one democratic tradition for which I am particularly grateful, especially because I live in a land desperately needing democracy. This tradition is that of a peaceful transition of power, and one whose importance can be easily demonstrated by two stories.

First, I will tell you a story as old as time itself. People are tyrannized by the cruel hand of a despot. Revolution begins to swell, eventually coming under the leadership of a charismatic hero. Revolution succeeds, and war hero becomes new leaders, promising peace, justice and an end to tyranny. Leader becomes mad with power, refuses to step down, and eventually becomes a dictator.

This vicious cycle is common world-wide, on every continent, and in every culture. I am currently living in a country which has witnessed this exact same cycle, and which is currently still waiting for another round of independence from its current round of revolutionary government-turned dictatorship.




Now, let me tell you another story. People are tyrannized by the unfair hand of a king. Revolution begins to swell, eventually coming under the leadership of a charismatic General. Revolution succeeds, and war hero, George Washington, becomes first President of a new nation. He ruled for two terms, carried the nation through its first fragile years, and then he retired to the countryside. By doing so, he effectively established the American tradition of a peaceful and predictable transition of power, and forever placed him high on my list of Americans that I thank on this day.

Poor Egypt. Poor Pakistan. Poor Zimbabwe. And pity any nation who has suffered through taxing and bloody revolutions only to realize that the new leaders are just as corrupt as the old. The United Sates is far from the shining light on the hill that our current delusional president likes to pretend, but we certainly can be a model for some democratic traditions. Thanks to the courage and selflessness of George Washington, Americans can have routine regime change without shedding blood. Thanks to our first president, I can look forward to November. There are enough examples of how easy it is for heroes to become dictators, but I am grateful that Washington took the hard road, stepped down, and made our country something I can be proud of.

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Just Another Day of Research/Pilates

I recently realized that I haven't really blogged about any of my specific research. I am sure many of you are wondering, "what is it exactly that you do?" Well, in my efforts to learn about women community leaders here in Cairo, I have many different strategies. But one of the strongest, is simply calling, e-mailing, and stalking the various women that I want to interview. When a new friend told me about a woman who is both a Fitness Entrepreneur and Dance Guru, I thought she would be a perfect addition to my research. What I didn't realize is what I would be signing myself up for to get the interview.

(Pauline calls the studio to try and get an appointment)

Pauline: "Hi, My name is Pauline and I am an American Writer and Fulbright Fellow, and I would like to speak with Ms. Samia" (Note, I have started to call myself a writer, because I have learned that people are skeptical of researchers. I think they think of test tubes and bibliographies and want nothing to do with that. Writers are cool and win Pulitzers and make breaking stories and make people famous. And okay, so maybe I am not quite a Writer with a capital W, maybe just one who writes)

Office Assistant: "Hi, well to be honest, Samia is extremely busy. The best way to get a hold of her is to take one of her classes. Why don't you come in tomorrow morning for the Kujo class."

Pauline: "Okay great, thank you so much. But, what is 'kujo?'

O. Assistant: "Its a high impact class. See you tomorrow!" click

High Impact? What on earth did I get myself into? I am an athletic person, but I certainly have not done any martial arts, and I don't like to make a fool of myself in front of the person I am trying to interview. Normally one tries to present oneself as a professional, cool, calm and respectable individual. Being a sweaty, stumbling, awkwardly high impact fool kinda ruins that image. But, it was my ticket to meeting her, and I was prepared to do anything.

At 9:15 on Monday Morning, I arrive at the studio. I am awkwardly dressed for an interview, because I felt I should look nice for the first impression at least. But now I just feel stupid standing in black pants and a dress shirt in the middle of a fitness center, surrounded by young and middle aged women in spandex ready for their date with high impact. I brought clothes to change into, but didn't have my shoes because I had left them at my gym. (I think I was secretly looking for a reason to sit out and maybe just chat with her afterwards) I was told I could watch the class, and then come back on Thursday for a Pilates class. But I caught my first glimpse of my target, and I was amazed.

Dressed in black and yellow, and as energetic as a bumblebee, Samia was mesmerizing. She led the class in fast past aerobics (okay, so no martial arts)and could probably dance circles around Billy Blanks. I couldn't wait to come back.

This morning, I arrived at the studio at 10:20. I give the front desk my guest pass, stroll into the locker room, and change into my own spandex and white tee-shirt. Again I am confronted with the issue of appearance for interviews. Am I going to interview her whilst doing abdominal crunches? Lunges? I pull my hair up and resign myself to doing my best to impressing her with my attempts at Pilates, and walk into the mirrored studio.

I head towards the back of the room, and pretty soon the place fills up with women. Egyptian and Foreign, these women seem to run the gambit in terms of age and possible flexibility, so my confidence grows that I won't be the only person unable to wrap my leg around my head. Samia is a vision in white, she walks to the front of the room and begins to lead us in breathing and stretching exercises. As I am sure many of you know, Pilates is much harder than it looks. In general, flexibility is much harder than it looks. Maybe thats the definition of grace, making a difficult task seem extremely easy. I was so focused on mimicking Samia's grace and movements that I didn't even realize that when she extended her leg to grab her foot near her shoulder, that I was trying to do the same, trying to stretch my hamstring in a way which I knew I couldn't do. From this method of doing something before you realized if you could succeed or fail, I discovered a few things that I could do. I can stand like a flamingo on one leg with the other pressed against my thigh, and from there I can keep my hands together in prayer on my chest and bend over to touch my remaining foot on the ground. I also learned that I cannot grab my foot and extend my leg at a 170 degree angle. Shocking.

After learning all of this, and in the meanwhile losing any degree of professionalism that I may have had, we finished the class and I changed for our meeting. Maybe it was because she had just taught me, and we had shared that educational bond which is so unique, or maybe because her grace in dance is also present in her conversation, but the interview was fantastic. She was extremely open, frank, and forthcoming with her own story. I learned that she basically introduced Aerobics to Egypt, that she is a successful entrepreneur, teacher, dancer, choreographer, life coach, and wife and mother. She has revolutionized fitness in Egypt, and she has watched the positive transformation of women in fitness from wanting to lose weight, to wanting to be healthy and fit. "Knowing that I have helped these women change their lives, that is what give me strength and energy." No wonder she has so much energy, as she has helped so many women. Maybe some day even I will get my leg up.

Monday, June 30, 2008

First Goodbye

I'm slowly saying goodbye to my life in Cairo. Yesterday, my roommate and I left our apartment where we had been living for 10 months. 10 months, that’s longer than a pregnancy. And even if its 4,000 times less significant than the miracle of life, 10 months in an apartment is still a big deal, especially when its been at the center of your existence in the chaos of Cairo. The apartment wasn’t perfect, and its landlord was even less so, but still, it hurt just a bit to say goodbye.

We had a kitchen, where we boiled our water for mint tea, where we killed a few too many cockroaches, and where we experimented with Cairo soy milk.

There was our living room, where we would burst in from a hot day, thankful to be home. Collapsing on the couch, we would turn on the TV and watch Arabic news, Egyptian movies, or terrible American films that somehow made it over here. On that couch I watched the McCain-Romney-Huckabee-Paul debates, remember those? On that couch I took naps, entertained guests, and took refuge from the pollution, traffic and chaos outside my door.

We had a dining room, and on the massive table we feasted on pancakes and eggs to replicate American Saturday morning breakfasts. We rang in the New Years with plenty of sisters and good wine. On that table I found out about my uncle, and on that table I drank my Nescafe.

In the bathroom there was a lot of blue: blue tiles, blue bathtub, blue sink and blue tub. In the bathroom I practiced my global trivia on the shower curtain. Uzbekistan: Tashkent. Kazakhstan: Astana. My roommate used to piffle toilet paper from our gym, so we always had a good supply of the Intercontinental's finest in that bathroom.

Then my own room of course. It was a den, and I was its bear. The window by my bed was my perch for looking down at the cow and sheep, and for eavesdropping on the gossiping neighbors. Most of the time they would scream, so I didn't really have to strain to hear. The bed was rock hard, something my back loved. I also loved it because it never failed to make me laugh to see a friend jump on the bed and then immediately grab their rear in shock more than pain. My room was where I went to recharge and to relax, to focus and to zone out, and to wake up and fall asleep in Cairo.

I am still in Cairo, but I am no longer in my apartment. I am in a new apartment, with two good friends and with all the comforts I could ask for. But, my heart is still a little sore. I had to say goodbye to my apartment, which I know is the beginning of the big goodbye to the city. But not just yet.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Obama the Patriot

So I am sure that you guys have heard the ridiculous rumors about Obama, that he secretly hates America, that he didn't hold his hand over his heart during the pledge of allegiance because he is a Muslim Communist who cuts in line. So, to combat this hate mongering, and to spread the truth, slate.com has started some new, and more patriotic rumors. They are hilarious, and absolutely more accurate for Obama-my-baby....

Barack Obama says the PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE every time he sees an American flag. He also ends every sentence by saying, "WITH LIBERTY AND JUSTICE FOR ALL." Click here for video of Obama quietly mouthing the PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE in his sleep.

Barack Obama is a PATRIOTIC AMERICAN. He has one HAND over his HEART at all times. He occasionally switches when one arm gets tired, which is almost never because he is STRONG.

Barack Obama has the DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE tattooed on his stomach. It's upside-down, so he can read it while doing sit-ups.

There's only one artist on Barack Obama's iPod: FRANCIS SCOTT KEY.

Barack Obama is a DEVOUT CHRISTIAN. His favorite book is the BIBLE, which he has memorized. His name means HE WHO LOVES JESUS in the ancient language of Aramaic. He is PROUD that Jesus was an American.

Barack Obama's new airplane includes a conference room, a kitchen, and a MEGACHURCH.

Barack Obama goes to church every morning. He goes to church every afternoon. He goes to church every evening. He is IN CHURCH RIGHT NOW.


If you dont think this is funny, the terrorists win.

http://www.slate.com/id/2193798/

Monday, June 23, 2008

Back Home from Abroad

In Cairo of course. I recently returned from my trip to Turkey. I participated in a conference in the Aegean coastal city Izmir, the third biggest city in the country and reputably the most Western/supportive of Turkey's staunch secularism. The conference was on Affirmative Action policies for women’s political participation and whether or not such policies are enabling or disabling. Basically, the conference looked at the question of Quotas for female political representatives, or members of parliament. We don’t have such a policy in the United States, but if we did, it would be something like “each state has to elect at least 5 female congresswomen” or something like…to ensure that women made up a certain, substantial percentage of the House of Representatives or the Senate. We don’t do this, and women only make up 13% of our Congressional Representatives. Ouch. That’s less than the global average of 15%, and way less than some of the global leaders in this area. Want to guess the country with the highest percentage of women MPs? Rwanda, coming in with around half of their MPs, shockingly close to the actual percentage of women in the population. The Scandanavian countries do damn well, and Sweeden particularly is a leader in the application of the quota system. But in general, the use of quotas to increase women’s political participation isn’t unique to any part of the world, its pretty spread out around all the continents and regions of the world. In my part of the world, that is in the Arab countries, Tunisia is far and beyond the leader in numbers. 22 percent is their proud statistic. Egypt is pathetic, at 2.4 percent. My favorite is the data for Saudi Arabia, which says 0% for women representatives, but then has an asterix to point out that men don’t have any representatives either, that’s the easy thing about straight up monarchies.


But enough of these numbers, you are probably wondering what it is that I did at this conference. Well, I am proud to say that for the first time, I presented a paper at an academic conference. I wrote my paper on the whole question of quotas in Egypt. I won’t get into all the details (that’s what the conference attendants, not my poor blog readers) but in case it comes up at your next cocktail party, Egypt in fact had a quota reserving 30 seats of the lower house of parliament for women, (that’s 10 percent, folks). But it was pretty badly put into effect, lots of people were unhappy about it, and not just chauvinists. It seemed like the women were unqualified, inexperienced, and were more appointed by Pharaoh Sadat than elected by popular vote. And as you know, Sadat was killed, and Egypt fell into a period of political instability, also not helpful for reforms which Sadat had created. Lots of other details, but in the end, quota was abolished and women now only make up 2 percent.

So what to do. Some would say, “But Pauline, Egypt has so many other problems to worry about, and women’s issues are so marginal.” Easy trap to fall into, but the answer is even easier. Women’s issues are everyone’s issues, that’s the nice thing about making up half the population. Just in the same way that men’s issues are everyone’s responsible, and if men were politically, economically, socially, and religiously marginalized throughout most of history and into current time, I would fully be supporting men’s rights. However, as it is, it is women who make up this marginalized community, but it is all of us who are responsible to correct this imbalance. The biggest problem in Egypt is currently the lack of democracy. And there can be no true democracy without the full participation and representation of women. All parties, across all political lines, should recognize the importance of their female constituency, and should work to empower the women in their own communities. A quota may not be the answer, but it is certainly a step in the right direction.

And now I am rambling, but I hope you found this slightly interesting. If so, I have a whole 20 pages and a power point that will certainly make your day.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Cairoville Photo



They let me take a photo with the gang.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Cairoville

So one of my Egyptian friends is a music producer/arranger, and he has been trying to get me to come check out the studio and see what sort of work he does. Last Tuesday I finally went, and I am kicking myself that I didn't go earlier. I stepped into the studio, and I felt like I was stepping into one of the many recording studios of my native Nashville. I was quickly introduced to a number of musicians, producers, managers, and technicians who came and went in and out of the sound proof room. My host sat me down, brought me some tea (10:00pm) went to the computer, and they all went to work as I sat mesmerized. A female vocalist was finishing her track, and then they four violinists came to do the strings. The lead male vocalist was practicing his English with me, while he taught me some Arabic musical terms. As always, they were very gracious with my Arabic abilities, flattering me so that I would open up, and we all got a long very well. The group's producer began to teach me some Arabic calligraphy and all the meanwhile, the strings kept taking take after take after take. I loved every minute of it. First of all, the song was incredibly catchy, so having to hear it over and over again was fantastic. Secondly, it was great to hear "Wait wait, lets do that again." and "I hear a mistake..I hear one of the violins going off"..."Take it from the arpeggio" and various other sentences in Arabic. At one point the police came to check out the studio, apparently a neighbor had called even though it was soundproof, and I joked how they were coming for the American spy. I got lots of laughs to my relief. The music was fabulous, and the musicians were even better. Sometimes I feel like I don't give young Egyptian men the credit they deserve. The cat calls and the stares in the streets has hardened my heart, and I have to remember that under that gelled hair and young face is probably a good heart and maybe even a hell of a violinist. All of these young men were extremely respectful and fun; music was their passion and it was fun to share it with them. All of them had other jobs, but they all secretly aspired to be successful musicians. For a moment, I forgot that I was half way around the world, miles away from my home. I may have been in Cairo, but it really felt like I was on music row. Now I just need to find the equivalent of the Pancake Pantry and I will be set.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Rachel Ray and Palestine


This is seriously the funniest thing I have seen in a long time. So, if you haven't heard, I will give you the background. Rachel Ray recently did a commercial for Dunkin' Donuts and their iced lattes, but she and her stylists decided to wear this scarf. Recognize it? If you have ever been to Palestine, Jordan or Lebanon, or even anywhere in the region, you may recognize this black and white checked scarf as the traditional head scarf for Palestinian men. If you did that, you get ten points. But you get minus 10,000 points if you said "oh thats the symbol of Islamic jihadist terrorism, right?" So thats -10,000 points for random blogger (like me except ignorant and coincidently conservative) Michelle Malkin, when she stated in her blog that "The Keffiyeh has come to symbolize murderous Palestinian jihad." Even the man who made this scarf famous--but who did not make the scarf--Yassir Arafat, was a staunch secularists. Amazingly, the ignorant rant of this truculent blogger managed to convince Dunkin' Donuts to pull the ad. This brings me to my second point of ridiculousness, did seriously no one of the at least 50 people who viewed this ad before it aired realize that dear Rachel would come off looking like either a Palestinian sympathizer or "a murderous jihadi?" Maybe I am just trapped in my little Middle East bubble, but I find it mind-blowing that such a styling statement went unnoticed until the rants of some neo-con. Anyways, I thought I would share some hysterical comments that I found regarding this story on the BBC website...Enjoy!

"The black and white scarf is part of the traditional attire of the Palestinian, Lebanese, Jordanian Arabs. The same way the red and white scarf is for Saudi, Omani, Bahraini Arabs. This is like saying that UPS should change its brown uniform because it pleases the Hitler Youth." -Fuad Khan, Dallas USA

"Does this mean we can no longer eat falafel sandwiches & hommus?" -Mansour Ansari, USA

"Quite possibly this is the most exposure the Palestinian cause has ever received in the mainstream media in the US. Sadly, the debate has been brought forth by a fatty-food distributor and a little known conservative pundit." -Christian Di Meo, Boston, USA

"How incredibly over the top. I don't think I have ever heard something so silly. Surely the big guns they are holding in the terrorist videos are a more true representation of their intentions yet you don't see any change in gun law in the US." -Mary, Colchester

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Rare Sighting



This is the first and probably only time I have escalated a Minbar, the pulpit in a Mosque. We figured that because it was no longer a functioning mosque, and because I have heard urban legends of Coptic priests giving nationalists sermons from the minbars of mosques, I figured the rules might be flexible. I didn't give any speeches, didn't proclaim anything, just went up, posed, and came back down. Even though its not an active mosque, let me know if you happen to know if this flies in the face of Islamic tradition, and I will be happy to remove this post. It's a nice photo, but not that nice if it is offensive.

Hassan Mosque and Madrassa


This is one of the most beautiful Mosques I have seen. Built in the mid 14th century, this Mamluk mosque is the biggest in Cairo. I took about forty photos of this amazing courtyard, in the middle is the structure for ablutions (washing before prayer) which currently housed some pigeons as the mosque is no longer used for religious purposes (hence the lack of a veil).Those arches are incredibly high, maybe fifty feet, but I am terrible at approximating. Hanging from the top of the arches were long chains which extended to about ten feet above the ground, holding small lamps.

Friday, May 30, 2008

A Letter to Dr. Rice

To The Honorable Dr. Condoleezza Rice, United States Secretary of State:

I remember where I was when I got the news that I would be traveling to Egypt on a Fulbright Grant. I was coming back from a Dentist appointment when I got a phone call from my roommate, Meghan, who excitedly told me that I had a big package from the International Institute of Education. "YOU HAVE TO OPEN IT!" I shouted excitedly at her. "I DONT WANNA DO IT!" she retorted, giggling nervously at the prospect of giving me bad news, but clearly confident from the big fat envelope in her hands. I was relentless, standing still in the middle of the sidewalk crossing my fingers and holding my breath. I heard the rustling of paper, and a happy yelp followed by "YOU GOT IT!" I screamed and began to jump up and down in diag of the University of Michigan. "I'M GOING TO EGYPT ON A FULBRIGHT!!!" I had the honor to be a United States Fulbright Grantee, a culture ambassador from my country to Egypt, and an integral part of the puzzle to promoting mutual understanding and peace in our world. Four months after this news, I got to travel to Egypt, thanks to your Department of State.

Dr. Rice, I am sure I don't need to tell you of the seven Fulbright Grantees who earned the award, but who have been deprived of their right to carry out their Fulbright grant. Just like me, these students met the rigorous academic, social and political requirements to bear the title of a Fulbright Grantee. The only difference is that these seven students are Palestinian, their home is Gaza, and their dream was to study abroad in the United States. They passed the grueling application process of the Fulbright Grant, they were honored with the title of Cultural Ambassador, and were given the responsibility of promoting understanding between the United States and Palestine. But the continued Israeli military control of Gazan borders has deprived these students of both their human right of free movement, and also their rights as US Fulbright Grantees to fulfill their dream and study abroad at an American University.

Dr. Rice, I am sure you know the story of the Fulbright Grant. Senator J. William Fulbright established the grant after the atrocities of World War Two, concluding that the human race could not afford to not live in peace, and that a World War Three would undoubtedly be the end of all mankind. Since 1946, Fulbrighters have been defeating national stereotypes, promoting mutual understanding, and attempting to defuse political tensions by operating on a person-to-person level. Dr. Rice, your State Department recognizes this program of exchange as an integral part of our foreign policy. My question, Dr Rice, is since when did the United States allow another country to arbitrarily prevent our efforts of diplomacy and foreign policy? It is true that we have historically sided with Israel, turning more than a few blind eyes to unjust policies, but we usually have done so in the spirit of "What is good for Israel is good for the United States." The United States has the muscle to change Israeli policies if we really wished to do so. But the travel prohibition for the Palestinian Fulbright Grantees questions this traditional American-Israeli relationship, or at least questions the Bush Administration's value of diplomacy. Dr. Rice, the refusal to allow these students to travel to the United States violates the American Fulbright Program, violates your sovereignty over American foreign policies, and it should not be taken lying down. This is not another example of the United States supporting Israeli policies, rather, this is unprecedented kowtowing which directly damages the United States and its foreign policy. If this administration would like to pretend that it places some value in both the Fulbright Program and in building a respectful relationship with Palestinians, I suggest that you put up a fight and stand up for what is right. Dr. Rice, as a Fulbright Grantee, I am asking you to give these Palestinians the honor which they have earned. But as an American citizen, I am begging you to do what is right for our country, and to not let the unjust actions of a foreign government derail American efforts towards peace.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

My First Girlfriend

I am so excited. I think I have made my first real girlfriend in Egypt. Sure, I have made lots of contacts with women for my research, and a few other fantastic women have taken me under their wings, but I think this is my first real Egyptian girl buddy. For whatever reason, it has been harder to make friends with Egyptian women, so this is has been so delightful for me. Well, maybe I am getting ahead of myself. She is actually my tutor, but yesterday we had a lovely outing and I think we may have bonded. To properly introduce her, I should also say that she is an excellent teacher. In addition to being an excellent Arabic language teacher, she has also done extensive Islamic studies (graduating from the top Islamic seminary, al-Azhar University) and has been very patient with my slow, stumbling Quranic recitations. She had asked me if I wouldn't mind going with her to an information seminar on the Fulbright grant, as she is interested in studying in the United States. I happily agreed, and we scheduled our outing for Tuesday. Then somehow it came up that she loved to crochet, and I excitedly burst out that I loved to knit, and she firmly suggests that we go together to the crafts store after our trip to Fulbright.

After checking out the Fulbright Commission, we took the metro to the neighborhood of Shubra--no relation--and we begin to stroll in the sunshine. We try to think of some good projects for her to propose for her Fulbright application, and while I was pensively listening to her thoughtful description of America as a place where all nationalities, cultures, and races mix together and how she would love to study there, I some how slipped on a bottle cap. I teeter-totter for like 3 seconds desperately grabbing on to my new friends silk dress, frantically clutching whatever I could get my hands on (turned out to be her hip) while she gasps and tries to catch me. Somehow, I regain balance and begin to gush out apologies, hoping I haven't ruined our afternoon, but she is too concerned with me to even blink. From then on, my hand was held tightly as we crossed the streets.

We went and stopped for nuts, a popular street snack here, and eventually wandered to the shop. I picked out a soft green and cream for a scarf, and picked up a set of needles. Knitting in Arabic is "Tatreko", but this sounds like a European word that somehow slipped into the lexicon. Crochet is, well, crochet. Wool is "Soof", where the term "Sufi" comes from to describe an adherent of Sufism, or Islamic Mysticism. The store owner was very curious about me, and I could hear him ask my friend where I was from, if I was Muslim, if I liked Bush etc. I jumped in, as I am used to these questions, and he loved that I called Bush a donkey (himar, standard for idiot) and used the phrase "the time has come" for Bush to leave office. I didn't think twice of this conversation as I have had in hundreds of times, but my tutor was very embarrassed and apologized. I reassured her that I really didn't mind, and then we talked about how Egyptians are pretty good at separating their opinions of a government from opinions of a people, i.e. We may not like Bush, but you Americans are a-okay. Its always funny, because even if I didn't vote for him, we still collectively elected him. Sometimes I think that Egyptians give Americans more credit than we may deserve in terms of distancing us from our politics, after all, until November, this catastrophe is apparently the will of the people.

We finished off our outing with two glasses of sugar cane juice, and it was as delicious as it sounds. I will be finished with my tutoring this upcoming week, but I hope that my new friendship will continue. We may not have slumber parties, but I hope that we will have some knitting parties. Knit, pearl, politics, and culture, I can already tell that I am learning a lot from my new friend, as long as I watch out for the bottle caps.

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Random Acts of Kindness

So there is this student group at Michigan whose name is something like, Students for Random Acts of Kindness." (Pause to retrieve your motion sickness bag). If you can't tell, I have two issues with this group. The first is that having an organized group for random acts of kindness doesn't make sense. "This week we are going to schedule a random act of kindness for 3:30. Be there or be a bad person". The second ridiculous thing about this group is that its kinda like the group of "students against cancer". Really? Do you need to mobilize a group in order to combat the students against random acts of kindness? Do they have debates? Anyways, the reason I bring all of this up is that I felt it due time that I record some of the true random acts of kindness I have witnessed here in Egypt, the unscheduled, unorganized kind.

Scenario One: Baby-swap on Subway. I have now seen this scenario a few times, and it never ceases to amaze me. The subway will be packed, and some poor mother or father will be holding a big bag (or a baby) and will also have a walking, yet unstable toddler by their legs. Their stop arrives, and it is clear that it is impossible to pick up the child, but it is also equally impossible for the small child to battle the oncoming traffic of entering passengers. Without anyone asking, and without the need for consent to be granted, a perfect stranger who is also getting off will pick up the child and get off the car with the toddler, handing the child back to his or her parent once they are on the platform. Seriously, can you imagine this happening in the States? Can you imagine a perfect stranger, picking up your child on the New York Subway without asking you? And can you imagine him not running off with his kidnapped prize? Can you imagine all of this going down with such a casual attitude that it is as if your brother had held the door open for you, and not that a dude you don't know had picked up your 2 year old in a very busy underground subway? I can't decide what is more impressive, the fact that these strangers casually help these struggling parents, or the fact that these parents welcome the offered help.

Scenario Two: When George and I were in Alexandria, we got a little turned around looking for the train station. As we were trying to straighten ourselves out, we found ourselves trapped in a parking lot where the cars were bumper to bumper. As we jumped over the cars as best as we could, I realized we weren't alone. Two other women, both Egyptian, were also a bit trapped. They were much older than us, and one of them was in quite the pickle. I offered her my hand to help her slide over the car, and the car began to buckle under her weight. When she made it over with my help, I said "al-hamdulillah" (thank god!) and she went nuts. She was tickled to death that I not only knew arabic, but also the favorite phrase of most Egyptians. She asked me where we were going, and I told her we were looking for the train station, and she firmly grabbed my hand and informed me that she and her friend, Fifi, would lead us there. She and Fifi were delighted to find out that George was an engineer, and forgave him for knowing limited Arabic. She didn't let go of my hand until we got to the station, and I had to convince her that from there we would be able to find our train just fine.

I have a feeling Fifi and co. don't belong to any clubs promoting Random Acts of Kindness. It just seems to come naturally. Of course not all seemingly friendly acts here are truly kind, many are attached to the hope of "baksheesh" or a tip. But most of them aren't, and woe to the foreigner who tries to tip those who are only seeking to help their fellow man. I think Fifi would have smacked me up if I had insultingly attempted to tip. Luckily for all parties involved, I recognized their help as a random act of kindness, even without their formal club membership.

Monday, May 19, 2008

Simplicity

So I saw I wonderful thing today. I was walking down one of the side streets near my house, when I saw a horse cart amidst the bumper to bumper traffic. Horses and donkeys are prevalent enough here to not be that surprised to see one, but its always nice seeing a friendly face instead of a hubcap. However, this horse was quite preoccupied. Oblivious to the honking horns and the suffocating exhaust, he was happily munching on a watermelon. His owner must have left the sweet treat, cracked in half, for his beast of burden to enjoy. The horse had finished off the first half, greedily sucking at the delicious watermelon juice remaining at the bottom of the hollowed out half. Really, who doesn't love watermelon on a hot afternoon? That horse definitely made my day. If you think this entry was completely worthless, at least learn three new Arabic words. Bateekh is watermelon. Hissawn is horse, and Mabsoota is Pauline, i.e. happy.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

A Lewis in Tunis

At the end of April, I had the amazing opportunity to travel to Tunis for a Fulbright Regional Conference. This was my first time to Western Northern Africa, or what we call in Arabic the "Maghreb", which means the western place. Like most countries in this region, and really in the world, Tunisia has a number of competing identities as a result of being the home of various civilizations.The Phoenicians, the Romans, the Arabs, and the French all left their mark on this small but beautiful land, and these various civilizations still live amongst the Tunisians today. Ruins from the ancient empires still stand tall, and Tunis/Carthage apparently holds the most intact Roman Mosaics of any former part of the Empire. Arabic and French are both national languages, and the secular nature of this Muslim country also reveals this dual-history. Tunisians assumed that we spoke French, and when we busted out the Egyptian Arabic, it brought lots of smiles and laughs. The popularity of Egyptian cinema and music in the region allows for Egyptian Arabic to travel pretty much anywhere, so at least they could understand us. My batting average was about .500 with the Tunisian dialect, the part I couldn't understand sounding like French with an Arabic accent and proved to be ultimately unintelligible.

In addition to my excitement to be in Hannibal's hometown, I was wrapped up the beauty of the architecture and exterior design of the buildings. Clearly a long way from Cairo, most of the buildings were white with blue accents, and the intricately designed doors were amazing. These are a few of the 300 photos I took of the beautiful scenery, and I believe that the Tunisian government should pay me for all of the times I mention how lovely the country is. please see tunisiatourism.gov for more information about your next trip to Tunisia.


This was all the backdrop for the conference, where about forty Fulbright students from the region came together to present their projects and meet their peers. Coming from Egypt, Syria, Israel, the U.A.E, Kuwait, Morocco, Tunisia, and Jordan, everyone had an interesting story to tell and a lot of shared experiences from living abroad for almost a year. People seemed to get more comfortable with one another by the end of the time there, ending the early posturing and academic banter that had tainted the first part of the conference. Once we all relaxed and realized we had nothing to prove, with the help of Tunisian beer and the spicy red sauce called "hirassa" we actually were able to learn something from one another.

Overall, it was a great trip and as usual, I couldn't help but learn a few things. Number One: Tunisians are very friendly. Number Two: Their food is amazing, I think I had more tuna than I have had since third grade. Number Three: Those Romans made a damn good mosaic. Number Four: You won't ever hear Tunisians criticizing their government. This was interesting to note, coming from Egypt, where the government is tyrannical, and there is a lot of censorship, but even on pain of imprisonment, Egyptians still speak out. Despite the beautiful facade, Tunisia is definitely no democracy, and there are a lot of problems that I would have enjoyed hearing our Tunisian colleagues discuss. Maybe the next trip. Either way, the doors were beautiful, the food delicious, and I hope that this Lewis will be in Tunis another time soon.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Finding Faith

There are many things similar about the American South and Cairo, Egypt. Many of both populations are religious, family orientated, and generally conservative about maintaining time honored traditions and ways of life. As a Unitarian, I often felt out of place growing up in Nashville, where not believing in Christ as my savior was often puzzling and tantamount to having a third arm. I even found myself repulsed by the concept of organized religion, as I felt it proved to be more exclusive and aggressive than inclusive and understanding. But life in Egypt has changed me. You can't escape religion here. It is not reserved in a special box of secularism to only be opened with caution. The call to prayer has become a sound of comfort, signaling the passing of the day and marking a time for reflection. Stores closing briefly to allow the owner to pray has become common place, and becoming comfortable with people praying in front of you has been a long struggle that I am just now winning. Partaking in the breaking of fasts, being invited (and declining) to witness the slaughtering of a sacrificial sheep, and striving to understand and learn about the religion of 1.2 billion Muslims, I have found myself engulfed in religion. In this environment of faith, I have absolutely become more spiritual. I believe it is inevitable in this country, and not because Muslims are forcing their religion upon me. Quite the contrary, the clear line that they draw between what is their religion, and what is mine, has made me more inclined to understand their faith. I never felt that respected by Christian evangelicals I encountered in America. Religion here is a common topic of conversation, a daily habit, but not something that is forced. Of course, every religion has its crazies. I am sure that at some point I might encounter the extreme Muslim who will not respect that line, but I think it says a lot that so far I have not. Religion may be a public matter, but its a personal decision. I feel that finally, in the middle of this Muslim land, I have truly found my own Unitarian faith. Not only do I find that I understand my own religion better, and that of my current neighbors, but I feel like I have finally gained an insight on religious America. After all, religion is religion, and faith is faith. I can't help but laugh that it took the Muslims to teach a Unitarian about the Christians and that it might take the Unitarians to unite the Christians and Muslims. Just trying to make Ralph Waldo and Adlai proud.

Thursday, May 1, 2008

The Art of Catching Lizards

Is there an art to catching lizards? Probably, but I certainly am not blessed with it. I am currently lying in bed, staring at the ceilings, waiting for the pink little lizard that I saw dart across my wall 20 minutes ago. I didn't scream, even though my heart leaped out my chest, and I calmly called for my roommate to come and help me catch a lizard. "A WHAT?!" she exclaims? I ask her to get a pot, but then we realize that a lizard might be slightly harder to catch than your garden variety pest, and so we arm ourselves with towels (as if that makes sense). I put on some winter gloves, as we couldn't find our rubber ones, and begin to shake my backpack that I believe it is hiding under. My roommate stands on the bed, waving my red towel like a matador, but she is self-admittedly less excited for the moment of truth. I said I think the lizard might be in the bag, and we prepare ourself for screams. I shake the bag, and sure enough, the lizard jumps out and on cue, we scream. High pitched girly screams that don't match either of our characters, we scream and leap almost as high as the poor lizard. He retreats under the bed, which much to our chagrin, is complicated by a big purple mattress. We convinced ourselves that a little lizard was nothing to fear, after all, had we been out on the pavement of Florida it would have been nothing to scream at. Had the lizard gotten out of its cage in 6th grade biology, and we had had to catch it and return it to its proper habitat, there wouldn't have been that shrill pitch. But we weren't in Florida, nor in 6th grade life sciences. We were in Cairo, in my bedroom, and we wanted to sleep. So after a fruitless search, rummaging through the various items on my floor, and after scouring the ceiling, walls, and corners of my room, I decided to go to bed. After all, its only a lizard. In fact I am encouraged that he has disappeared for good as I am now combating a house fly, and something tells me my ex-roommate wouldn't let that stand on his watch.

Friday, April 25, 2008

"If it looks like Apartheid..."

Check out this brilliant article by Yossi Sarid, printed in the Israeli newspaper, Haaretz.

Responding to the shocked and defiant reactions of most Israelis when accused of running an Apartheid state--with regards to the military occupation of the West Bank and to the blockade of Gaza--Yossi argues that Israelis shouldn't be disgusted by a word, they should be disgusted by the reality.

"What do we have to do with apartheid? Does a separation fence constitute separation? Do separate roads for Jewish settlers and Palestinians really separate? Are Palestinian enclaves between Jewish settlements Bantustans?"

"The white Afrikaners, too, had reasons for their segregation policy; they, too, felt threatened - a great evil was at their door, and they were frightened, out to defend themselves. Unfortunately, however, all good reasons for apartheid are bad reasons; apartheid always has a reason, and it never has a justification. And what acts like apartheid, is run like apartheid and harasses like apartheid, is not a duck - it is apartheid. Nor does it even solve the problem of fear: Today, everyone knows that all apartheid will inevitably reach its sorry end."

Check it out for the full article: http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/spages/977947.html

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

On Becoming a Cairene

It's happening, slowly but surely. I may never become an Egyptian, but I am definitely becoming a Cairene. And yes, that is what a person living in Cairo is called, at least its better than a Cairite. Anyways, I had the big epiphany the other day on the Metro. In the Cairo subway, you have to hold onto the ticket you buy because you will need it to exit the metro at the end, or at least thats the formal rule. In general, the Cairo metro can be pretty lax in terms of enforcing ticket rules. You see people jumping over the turnstiles about as frequently as the trains run, and no one seems to care. The other strategy is to trail someone who does have a ticket, walking closely and sneaking into their rotation of the turnstile, with or without their permission. I have had people try to do this to me, and its an up close and personal experience that I never thought I would initiate. Until last Monday.

On the long train back from the Population Council where I intern, I realized that I had lost my ticket stub. I never lose my ticket stub. I desperately searched my bag, pockets, hair, grasping for the little yellow ticket that I am always so careful to protect. After the fifth unsuccessful dig into my pocket, I accept the fact its gone for good. We reach the Sadat station, I disembark, and begin to roll over my options. I could jump, but that makes a scene. Once in a while you will see officers yelling at jumpers, threatening to pay a ridiculous fine for something that everyone does. I think about trying to go under, but with the afternoon rush I could get trampled. This leaves me the one option that I never thought I would dare to do. I select an unsuspecting younger woman and get behind her as she is about to insert her ticket into the turnstile. I sneak up real close and slide in, grabbing the bar to make sure I make it. Sliding my left hip and then my right into the space, I succeed with relative ease. My spirits sour until my unwilling cohort looks behind her and gives me the dirtiest look I have ever received. I give her a sheepish smile and then hung my head in shame. But my self-loathing was limited, as I quickly reminded myself that my criticizing hero had probably committed the same trick before. I didn't cheat the system as I had paid for my ride. I was just listening to that old proverb..When Cairo, do as the Cairenes do.

Here are some other entertaining examples of how you know you have been in Cairo too long:

1. When I was in Berlin, I found myself in a very small bathroom of a fancy cafe. There was only one sink, and some German woman was busy washing her hands. Not even thinking twice, I barged in and began to share the single stream with her. Needless to say, I quickly remembered that the Germans have a different definition of personal space than Cairenes do.

2. In Barcelona, I repeatedly said "ah ah ah" in a low tone to indicate "yes". This is how Egyptians say "yeh, yeh" or "uh huh..uh uh" to confirm. But in Spain it just sounds like you are imitating a gorilla.

3. I don't question the need to offer my taxi driver some of the peanuts that I am munching on. And he doesn't find it strange to accept my offer. Food is just tastier when you eat it together.

4. I find myself staring slackjawed at the clueless tourist wearing hot pants and halter tops in the middle of downtown Cairo. I have yet to give them a catcall or two, but after my fall from grace in the Metro, you never know what I am capable of.

5. In Cairo, you get someone's attention by hissing or making kissy noises. Seriously. Even old women do it. I can't wait to fly back to the states and start making kissing noises at the flight attendants to ask if I can have some more water.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Available Tools of an Unavailable Democracy

So a few days have passed since the strikes on Sunday, but the dust has yet to settle. Some are calling it the beginning of massive civil disobedience here in Egypt. Others saw it as a pathetic joke. Some saw it as a complete success. "In your country"-they tell me-"where there is freedom of speech and democracy, this wouldn't have been a big deal. But for us in Egypt, we have to take little steps, and so this was a big statement here." But according to others, the only thing Sunday demonstrated was the strength of the State and the weakness of the People. While the situation in Mahalla was heated--massive protests following the security's interruption of the strike--the deaths, injuries, and arrests were largely limited to this city in the Delta. There were plenty of riot police in Cairo, just not so many riots. Maybe it was because there was a poorly timed sand storm that day, but the streets really didn't seem that different from any other day. The only visible sign of civil unrest was the fact that on every street corner stood 30 police in riot gear.

My friends and I went downtown to see if there was anything going on, and while paused to make a phone call, a plain-clothed policeman came up to ask us to keep moving. I asked why, and they gestured to their uniform garbed counterparts and said it was "forbidden" to stand. We moved to a different part of the plaza, and stopped again to discuss our plan of action. Within heartbeats, another plain-clothed officer approached us and asked us to keep moving. I smileed and jokingly ask "is this okay?" and proceed to march in a circle around and around, "I'm moving, right?!" He smiles and repeated the command and I didn't push my luck. I certainly didn't care to end up in the back of the large empty police trucks that-with the lack of peacefully protesting civilians--now had plenty of room for cheeky foreigners.

There will be another strike on May 4, Mubarak's 80th birthday. It's just frustrating to witness a people attempting to use democratic tools to voice their frustrations: strikes, protests, voting (hm thats a concept), sit-ins, and other peaceful means of demanding their rights. But this government insists on crushing these tools and pulling the rug out from under the people. How long does Mubarak, and Bush for that matter, expect the Egyptian people to get no where with these peaceful tools of democracy (which are probably only effective in a democracy) before some resort to violence? I've always denounced the use of violence to achieve ones goals. But along with my denunciation, I have recognized the importance of providing people with peaceful forms of expression, or at least, allowing them to use those tools of expression which a democracy gives its citizens. Egypt is not a democracy, and therefore I know I shouldn't expect it to give its people the benefits that come with the system. But despite this, I do tip my hat to the Egyptians who are trying, no matter what the consequences, to use the tools of a democracy which doesn't even exist for them.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

"Women Hold Up Half the Sky"

You can say a lot of things about communists, socialists, Bolsheviks, and Maoists, but these movements do generally get one thing right: valuing women's social and economic input. In the words of Mao Tse-Tung, "women hold up half the sky". I don't make a habit of quoting the man who left a trail of blood in the Cultural Revolution and who left millions dead in the misguided agricultural polices of the Great Leap Forward. However, I will grant that he got one thing right with this quote. Women do hold up half the sky as they make up half of the population, and society as a whole should recognize this fact.

Tomorrow, April 6, there will be massive strikes in Egypt, protesting the current economic crisis that prevents the average Egyptian from making ends meet. Originally planned by the textile mill 'Ghazl al-Mahalla, thousands of other workers have pledged to also strike in solidarity with al-Mahalla, which also happens to be the largest textile mill in the Middle East. Since the summer of 2007, the workers of al-Mahalla have been locked in a battle for their rights with the Labor Ministr. Coming at a time of increasing political instability and economic crisis, many Egyptians see their fate, and the fate of their totalitarian government, resting on the shoulders of these average workers. And here is the catch: many of these workers are women.

These female workers are not the stereotype (Western or Egyptian) of the Arab woman. They are strong, standing shoulder to shoulder with the male counterparts, demanding their rights. This overheard quote has been surfacing around Egyptian blogs, proudly displaying women's outspoken participation with the workers movement:

A Mahallah male activist describing the role of the women in the past strikes and the upcoming 6 April strike: … so these ladies
A Mahallah female activist interrupting: Don’t call us ladies! we are workers and we are proud of it. we work in the factory, we work at home and we work in the farm, we are workers!


Women in Egypt are raising their voices, not necessarily in the specific tones of feminism, but in the united tones workers rights, for men and women. I once heard Haifa al-Kaylani, Chairman of the Arab International Women's Forum, mention "I'm not a feminist, I'm an economist." Women are half of the potential work force, half of the economic energy of a country, and currently an enormous resource which Egypt has yet to fully tap. This isn't about exploiting that resource, its about appreciating its power. The women of Mahalla, along with their brothers, can no longer be ignored. Tomorrow Egypt will see hear the voices of its workers, and will see the strength of those who hold up half the sky.

For more information see: www.arabist.net
www.arabist.net/arabawy
http://arabist.net/hatshepsut

Friday, April 4, 2008

Published!

I figure since I am not established enough in life to be used to these sorts of things, its still okay for me to get really excited and tell everyone when I get published. Especially when its in a cool news forum like the Common Ground News Service, which strives to publish pieces that will unite rather than divide, and will help build inter-cultural understanding and inter-faith cooperation. SO! Here it is:

http://www.commongroundnews.org

My piece is entitled "In their shoes," and for some of my more loyal followers/blood relatives who have to keep up with my previous blogs, you might recognize this story from my old blog during my summer in the West Bank.

Happy Reading and I promise if I have the good fortune of one day being an established professional, I won't continue to brag about various publications. But seeing as that day is a long ways off, for now just be patient as the pathetic, non-accomplished 23 year old blabbers on about these somewhat exciting things in her life. Just smack me around a bit whenever you decide my bragging rights have expired.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Sandstorm!

It was not a military operation nor is at a popular techno song, but what we we witnessed last Friday was a straight up, not kidding you, Sandstorm. We had heard they would be coming, but no one could prepare us for that day. I was going to meet a friend for a birthday party at the Hard Rock Cafe (I know, not very culturally adventurous, but they had an all you can eat beer and wings so I couldn't really blame him for his choice) and right as I stepped out the door, I knew something was in the air. That something was lots of sand. Gusts of wind were shooting the small particles everywhere, and so I put on my sunglasses even though it was dusk. Visibility was at an all time low as I headed towards the Nile, and not just because I was wearing sunglasses at 6:30 pm. The usual landmarks of hotels dotting the river were almost invisible in the yellow haze, and I had to keep my mouth shut tight lest I should get a mouthful of sandy delight. I found my way into the restaurant and congratulated myself for surviving my first, but probably not my last Sandstorm.

April is notorious for the sandstorm season, what the Egyptians call the "khamseen". This is not very comforting if you know Arabic and realize that "khamseen" means 50, as in the sandstorm season can last for FIFTY DAYS!! Here is a photo that I took of the storm approaching the outskirts of Cairo




April Fools! Thats not Cairo, thats somewhere in Sudan, and I couldn't be happier about it. But it is much more dramatic than a photo of me at the Hard Rock Cafe with dust on my sunglasses. But who knows, that could be what hits Cairo in a few days. Its starting to make a little more sense why these Arabs have a thing for scarves, isn't it funny how it all comes back to regional weather patterns? Anyways, as of yet, the sandstorm season has been pretty tame. I haven't yet woken up to my windows blown open and my bed covered in sand (heard that from a friend) nor have I had to seek refuge in Auntie Em's cellar.

To keep you entertained as Pauline gets dusty, here are some fun facts about the khamseen:
1. The sandstorms blow in from the south to the northwest, in opposition to the prevailing winds.
2. About 40 million tons of dust are transported annually from the Sahara (thats my hood) to the Amazon basin (very very far away from my hood)
3. Pauline was going to make another trip out to the desert, but is currently rethinking that decision. "If sandstorms are bad in the city, lets go to where there is MORE sand to stir up...."

So.....Anyone coming to visit me this month?

see http://www.egyptsearch.com/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=016087 to see where I got my fun facts and ridiculous photo.

Monday, March 31, 2008

Confused?

Confused about some of the different Shiite sects in Iraq? Basra? Whats going on? This article is a a little old, but it does a pretty good job explaining just what is going on. It just still blows my mind that the US is somehow proud of putting into power a government whose largest block is the "Supreme Islamic Council for Iraq", a party with an Islamist platform, duh. (By the way, if it weren't obvious enough from the new name, a few years ago there was no excuse. The original name was the Supreme Council for ISLAMIC REVOULTION IN IRAQ. Wish I could have been there as Bush contemplated such thoughts..hmmm, Islamic Revolution, that worked well in Iran in 1979, so lets place our bets with them in Baghdad!) We put them into power. And yet we are scared of Iran? My head hurts rolling these thoughts around. But if you have been hurting from trying to keep the Mahdi Army straight from the Badr Corps, they are both Shia so that doesn't help, give this article a chance. Afterwards you will still have to puzzle over the US invasion which put Islamists in power, but you will at least have a few things straight.

http://www.latimes.com/news/printedition/front/la-fg-shiites30mar30,1,1596179.story

For more updates, keep checking out Prof. Juan Cole's blog, juancole.com

Saturday, March 29, 2008

"Let Them Eat Cake"

There is currently a bread crisis in Egypt. Bread here is subsidized, but as corruption eats away the system from the top down (there's Reagan economics for you) at the end of the line and at the end of the day, there is often not enough bread to go around. Adding to the tinder box of missing bread are the increasing food prices. Protests and demonstrations are crowding the streets and newspapers, as Egyptians are not able to match these increasing prices with their ever dismal wages.

Even doctors are taking to the streets, striking for one hour each day to protest their sobering salaries. Hamdy al-Sayyed states that"the average salary for a graduating doctor now is LE 220 ($40) per month, which doesn't buy much."

I don't even want to tell you how much Fulbright is paying me, its sickening in comparison to what these men and women with medical degrees are making. They save lives, and they barely have enough to get by. And remember, this is the profession that Egyptians look to as the key out of poverty. Doctors and Engineers, doctors and engineers, this is the mantra that is repeated over and over. Egyptian parents want their children to take on these two traditionally prestigious professions that will supposedly bring them a better life. But for now they are working on just getting enough bread.

Patience grows thin as the bread lines grow long. The corruption that the state uses to stay in power is now its greatest threat, as it eats away at the scaffolding of this teetering structure. I realize I am watching this from the sidelines, that I am not really affected by the frustration and the crisis that is building. I am no Egyptian, and I am no economist. But I still can't help but wonder, is Mr. Mubarak really not that familiar with the story of Marie Antoinette?

See http://www.dailystaregypt.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=12562

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

My Brother's Keeper

In a world where we are often divided by religion, it is nice to see that some still refuse to play that polarizing game. I don't know if this news is hitting the US, but currently in the Netherlands, a racist right wing politician, Geert Wilders, is making a movie based on the fantastic claim that the Quran is a fascist book. This is, of course, the post productive path one can do in exercising their freedom of speech right? Oh I know, I will insult an already marginalized religious group in Europe. While I'm at it, I will go ahead and scream fire in a movie theatre, because thats freedom of speech also, right? Instead of looking the other way, a number of Jewish groups in the Netherlands have condemned Wilder's dangerous hate mongering. Harry de Winter, the Jewish community leader pointed out the double standard of his country, by asserting that Muslims have become the victims of prejudice that would never be tolerated (today) if it targeted Jews.

"It's incomprehensible that Mr Wilders keeps on coming out with such rubbish. If you read the Old Testament [the Jewish Torah] then you also find texts about hatred of homosexuals, hatred of women and the murdering of non-Jewish preachers."

De Winter points to the obvious fact that Jews have been the subject of even worse prejudice and racism, and therefore they should be the most defensive of their Muslim brothers currently targeted.

'As he says in de Volkskrant: "We Jews know like no others what this sort of discrimination can lead to."'

'In an interview with the paper, De Winter says that Wilders’ approach to Islam is like the build-up of anti-Jewish sentiment before World War II. ‘I see no difference between a skull-cap (worn by Jewish men) and a headscarf,’ De Winter said. ‘I hope we get support from across the Jewish community because they should recognize this like no-one else.’

For me, this was a heartwarming piece of news. It is already a rare find to discover a Dutchman who is willing to defend his Muslim brothers. But the fact that he is also a Jew is what really moves me. De Winter does not pay attention to the violent rhetoric of those ignorant Islamic radicals who disobey the Quranic command of tolerating and protecting the Jewish people. De Winter does not listen to those on both sides who argue for a clash of civilizations between the black and white battle of the Muslims/haters of freedom vs. those of Judeo-Christian/Zionist-Crusader heritage. Instead, De Winter steps up to the plate. As a Dutchman, and as a Jew, he demands the ending of this ridiculous onslaught of hate. No matter who is targeted.


For reference see http://www.islamtoday.net/english/showme2.cfm?cat_id=38&sub_cat_id=1823